Forget fat. Forget cholesterol. Forget nouveau cuisine or hip movie stars' namesakes or calories or smoking rooms. The Biscayne Miracle Mile Cafeteria is no-nonsense, down-to-earth, classic American cooking at ridiculously low prices.

"It's good food for cheap," said Alex Nunez Jr., son of the restaurant's owner. "That is basically what it is. It's home cooking for a decent price. What would you rather do--go to McDonald's and spend $5.25 on a hamburger and fries, or come here and get fried chicken and mashed potatoes for $3.15?"

Mike Diaz, manager and Nunez's father-in-law-to-be, agreed. "We're somewhere between fast food and Christy's," he explained.

Diaz said although the cafeteria is located smack dab in the middle of a city known for its posh restaurants, the Nunez family decided to retain its tried and true charm when the restaurant was remodeled last summer, perhaps because Alex Nunez Sr. remembers when he used to eat there as a child.

"It's a very traditional place and it's still very unique in South Florida, especially nowadays, to have a restaurant with homestyle cooking," said Nunez, whose mother used to lunch at the cafeteria daily when she worked in the area in the 1960s. "We decided to stay away from the glitz and to remain a homey, traditional kind of place."

Established in 1946, the cafeteria offers piping hot meals just like grandma used to make. It's the ideal eatery for the hungry, the home sick and anyone else who craves a good, simple, home-cooked meal.

"Being that we've been here since '46," Diaz said, "you'll see, especially on Sundays after church, four generations coming for lunch."

Served in traditional cafeteria line style, the restaurant features stick-to-your-ribs dishes generous on taste and portion and skimpy on second guessing.

Daily entrees include: succulent lamb shank with peas and carrots in tomato gravy, fresh roast turkey and roast beef carved to order, chopped beef steak with onions, fried or poached fish, melt-in-your-mouth beef brisket, perfectly baked chicken with white or yellow rice and liver and onions cooked to order.

Specials such as tasty pork roast, chicken a la king, corned beef and cabbage, turkey or chicken pot pies, sweet baked ham, beef stew, pepper steak, hearty chicken and dumplings, meat loaf to write home about, shrimp Creole, stuffed peppers, spaghetti and meatballs, creamed turkey, poached salmon with lemon and country steak are but a few of the house specialities that have made the Coral Gables establishment a down home landmark.

Meals are served with side dishes cooked with just the right amount of salt and butter, such as mashed potatoes, stuffing, cranberry sauce, sweet potato souffle, garlic roasted potatoes, lima beans, turnip greens, creamed spinach, okra and tomatoes, brussel sprouts, chopped collard greens, apple sauce and macaroni and cheese. A healthy plate including the customer's choice of three vegetables is available for $2.50.

Patrons can also select from a choice of three soups--such as matzo ball, cream of broccoli, fish chowder, lentil and split pea-- all made from scratch daily and served in gigantic bowls. A choice of raw fruit or vegetable salads with any of seven dressings is also available.

Biscayne Cafeteria also offers its legendary corn bread, including the jalapeno and honey varieties, as well as mini zucchini loafs, pumpkin bread, muffins, garlic twists and dinner rolls, all baked fresh daily by the restaurant's two full-time bakers.

The bakers also create a variety of sumptuous desserts: pies such as Key lime, lemon meringue, Bavarian cream, pumpkin, pecan, apple and cherry; cakes such as chocolate layer, sponge and vanilla layer; puddings such as chocolate, tapioca and bread; various flavors of gelatin; and cinammon buns with a cascade of white icing.

All this classic cooking comes at classic prices. Entrees start at $2.50, vegetables are 90 cents each, generous servings of soup are $1.65 each and the wide range of salads starts at $1.05 each. In addition to the scrumptuous food at great prices, the service at Biscayne Cafeteria is unsurpassed. The Biscayne Cafeteria offers good old Southern hospitality in the heart of Coral Gables.

One group of patrons, a couple from North Miami Beach and their friend from Miami Shores, pulled Diaz and Nunez aside to tell them how much their experience at Biscayne Cafeteria was worth the trip. Diaz said he's heard similar compliments from patrons traveling from South Dade, Miami Lakes, Hollywood and South Beach.

"Everyone comments on the excellent service and how helpful our wait staff is," Diaz said of the tuxedoed waiters, who will set and clear the table, bring drinks and refills and attend to any special needs.

"I've been in quite a few different businesses and I've never seen the level of customer satisfaction that we have here," he added. Take out and catering services are also available from the Biscayne Cafeteria. Patrons can choose from a roast turkey, ham, beef brisket or cornbeef dinner, as well as a variety of whole pies and cakes such as German chocolate pie, rum cake, sweet potato pie, pineapple upside down cake, cream pie, peanut butter cake, peach pie, holiday cake, pistachio cake, minced meat pie, carrot cake and chocolate eclairs by the dozen. Carving and delivery are available.

The Biscayne Cafeteria is located at 147 Miracle Mile in Coral Gables. Business hours are 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m. seven days a week. For information, call 444-9005.