Every day, people in the rat race change their name, their face or the color of their hair in hopes of creating a new identity. But essentially, whether Smith or Suarez, wrinkled or taut, blonde or brunette, they are the exactly the same.

The new owners of Stefano's, on the other hand, have gotten it right. By keeping the name of their establishment to that of the Key's hopping night spot of nearly two decades and making only minor but significant renovations to their building, Nicolas Mavris and David Llewellyn have put the horse before the cart and are ready to drive their chariot graciously along the slow, customer-friendly lane to success.

"We're not looking to become overnight millionaires," said Mavris in his impeccable English laced with a tinge of the Greek and Danish inflections of his parents. "We've reduced all the prices to make people feel comfortable coming in and to make it more of a family place. In making it more affordable, it will automatically have that impact."

"We don't want people to perceive us as so expensive that they're afraid to walk in the door," he added. Mavris said while his and Llewellyn's Stefano's will continue to serve tasty northern Italian fare and will stay open as a disco through the wee hours on weekends, he hopes the client base of his establishment will broaden into the entire Key Biscayne community, from singles to families to organized groups.

One way the new owners hope to create a more inclusive atmosphere is to lower the menu prices as well as the price tags in the liquor store and deli. For instance, the new Stefano's serves lunch as of June 18, something the former Stefano's did not do.

"We're not going to make money on lunch. We know that. But we're providing a service for the community. It's a give and take. You can't just think about one or the other," Mavris said, adding that this approach has been the secret to the his family's success in the shipping industry, making the Mavrises of Kassos world renowned business people.

General Manager Nick Iovici, a Romanian immigrant who served as the Sonesta Beach Resort's maitre d' for many years, said this attitude is the primary benefit of a family-owned business.

"Family businesses are always looking to the long-term, to save, to preserve, to give back," explained Iovici, who is constantly negotiating with liquor and wine sellers for the best price for the customer. "Not many people in Miami do this."

Another way the new owners hope to appeal to more customers is by offering the restaurant as a place to hold community functions. So far, the American Legion and American Legion Auxiliary local posts meet monthly at Stefano's, and the Key Biscayne Woman's Club held a luncheon featuring the St. Agnes Academy choir at the eatery.

"You want to have people coming in and holding their functions because you establish a relationship with them," explained Mavris, who holds a master's in international business from Nova Southeastern University. Moreover, Mavris and Llewellyn, who met while working as executives at Celebrity Cruise Lines, have redecorated the restaurant's interior, replacing stained, smoky carpets and dingy ceiling tiles, restained wood paneling and reupholstering tattered chairs with brighter colors.

But the most powerful and at the same time most subtle strategy for becoming a family-style restaurant is the fact that Mavris, father of three, and Llewellyn, a Scotsman and father of two, are family men who bring their kin into Stefano's on a daily basis.

"My mom works here. She's my angel," Mavris said, confessing that his biggest weakness is taking his daughters out to play each day on the Village Green or the beach. "Because I know that family feeling I want people to feel that coming in."

Jetta Mavris, a poised, genteel Scandinavian, works the cash register in the liquor store, which recently won 1997 Best Liquor Store in Miami from the New Times. Llewellyn's sister-in-law, Nancy Esposito, replaces Jetta in the afternoons. Mavris' younger sister, Julie, comes in to help out after school, while his brother, Michael, works at Stefano's at night after finishing his day job at the cruise lines.

The goal of this tight-knit group, Iovici said, "is to not have any customer leave dissatisfied...I don't think there's a reason for people to leave the island if we offer what they need." Mavris agreed, adding that the new owners hope to merely enhance the attributes of the old Stefano's, which he said was a good business.

"The service and quality of food was great. The guy [Stefano Brandino] ran a good restaurant," explained Mavris, who puts in two-digit-hour days between the restaurant and working with cousin and independent ship owner Nicki Pappadakis.

"We want to improve on that."

Stefano's is now open for lunch from 11:30-2:30 p.m. Dinner is served from 6-11 p.m. The bar opens at 5 p.m. The gourmet deli and liquor store is open from 9:30 a.m.-10 p.m.

For information, call 361-7007.